Totally fried from travel, but too wired to sleep, I will hereby attempt to summarize my past week at the SXSW Music Conference in Austin, Texas...
Tuesday: After a fairly agonizing ride on US Airways' screaming child-filled flight from Phoenix to Austin, my Editor-in-Chief Randy and I rolled into downtown Austin in the late afternoon, cranking the 13th Floor Elevators in the rental car as we drove. Free for the evening, we dragged our colleagues Russ and John out to the County Line restaurant for some serious Texas-style BBQ (pictured above). John, who generally subsists on things like yogurt and air, was horrified when Russ and I took him up on his joking suggestion that someone order the "1/2 lb. Sausage Plate" appetizer. We also added a plate of "Cheese Bits" (basically jalapeno poppers) for good measure. Then we met up with my friend Juliana's posse at the Four Seasons bar, where we sipped wine in a most civilized fashion until last call.
Wednesday: After an equally civilized breakfast on the patio of our hotel, we headed over to the Fader Fort, a sprawling (and newly constructed) compound east of the I-35, where SXSW's biggest unsanctioned gatherings would take place over the next four days. It was here, in a somewhat converted mobile home, that I and my colleagues would do our interviews (nearly 60 of 'em in all before the week was out); today, my old friend Tim Stegall (pictured above) was on hand to help with the grilling of various rockers, rollers and rappers — today's interview highlights included Gallows, the Postelles, Kevin Devine and Kid Sister. Afterwards, I guided Randy, Russ, John and our co-worker Stella to the Boiling Pot, where all but Russ and I were semi-grossed-out (or worse) by the spicy crawfish and unpeeled shrimp that were dumped on our table. Pussies.
Tried to go and see Tony Joe White, but the line was too damn long. Wound up going to see Montreal heavies Priestess over at Emo's Annex, and (in typical SXSW serendipity) was blown away by the band that came on before them, a British duo called The Sea. Imagine a heavier White Stripes crossed with the early Jimi Hendrix Experience and some late-sixties UK psych a la Mike Stuart Span, and that's kinda what these dudes were laying down. Dude was playing a Rickenbacker, too. Also caught the last half of Manchester Orchestra's set at the Radio Room, and was pleasantly surprised by how "rock" they've become. Oh yeah — Priestess totally fucking ruled...and could also be heard about three blocks away.
Thursday: This was the most brutal one. Somewhere along the line, it was decided that there would be no backstage catering at the Fader Fort, even though a) it was in a somewhat remote area, and b) we would have no time to leave between noon and 8 pm to get anything. "No problem," we were assured; "It'll be easy to have something delivered." Well, it wasn't; the lunch that was ordered around 2 pm finally showed up around 6:30. Which meant that our writer Nadine Cheung (who was helping me out with the interviews), my video droogies Bryan and Rusty and myself were all in pretty fucking foul moods as the afternoon dragged on and we subsisted on beer and candy. One respite came late in the afternoon, when a break in the interview action allowed us to run out to the stage area to watch Janelle Monae (above) kick some major ass. Think of Grace Jones minus the cocaine plus Josephine Baker times James Brown doing the funky robot, and you'll have at least some idea of what kind of brilliance she's bringing to the table. She gave a great interview, too, as did Big Boi, Lady Sovereign, Amanda Palmer and the goofballs from Brooklyn buzz band Amazing Baby. Between the long day, no food, and the heat and humidity, I was in no shape to go out and make the scene once evening rolled around; I poured myself a vodka and cranberry from my minibar, took a bubble bath, and was fast asleep by about 10:30.
Friday: Feeling way more refreshed than any SXSW attendee probably had a right to be, I sailed through one interview after another — so much in the zone, in fact, that I can't even remember right now who I interviewed that day. This was our third day of being cooped up in the mobile home, and by now we were getting pretty punchy; Rusty, Bryan and (especially) I regressed to about twelve years of age, engaging in between-interview banter that can charitably be described as "foul". Much mirth in particular was derived from the fact that our snack basket was filled with a granola bar called "Sweet & Salty Nut"; seriously, we riffed on that one for hours. Oh yeah — I interviewed Devo, who showed up in grey radiation suits and "energy domes". They were amazing to talk to, though there was an awkward moment when they asked me if I was going to come and see them that night. I thought it would be bad form to lie to Devo, so I told the truth — "I'm gonna be at the New York Dolls show." Bob 1's face fell somewhat, and he muttered "Well, your loss," in a decidedly crestfallen way. I felt really shitty, like I'd just gravely disappointed my dad. Still, I don't regret my concert-going choice; the Dolls (above) were utterly amazing. David and Syl seemed to be having a ball trotting out old numbers like "Trash," "Jet Boy" and "Personality Crisis," and the songs from their forthcoming new album sounded pretty great as well. And their Johnny Thunders medley of "You Can't Put Your Arms Around A Memory/Lonely Planet Boy" was profoundly beautiful, silly and moving all at the same time. There was so much heartfelt joy pouring off the stage, it made me giddy just to be in its onrushing path.
Saturday: Three down and one to go, and this time I had no one to help me with the interviews. Didn't matter, though; by this point, I felt like you could have dug up Brian Jones and I would have gotten a good interview out of him. Today's subjects/victims included Exene Cervenka, Andre Williams and UGK rapper Bun B, the latter of whom spoke rapturously of the Dead Kennedys and Suicidal Tendencies. Our surreal locker room humor was spreading, however; Mike, our head video guy (and easily the "straightest" dude in the trailer) emerged from the editing room to announce, "Gentlemen, the good news is, I remembered to bring my booty shorts." We were all laughing so hard, we never did find out what the bad news was. I finally finished my last interview of the festival around 8 pm and headed back into town, stopping at Tacos Del Fuego for some pretty decent beef and cheese tacos on my way to Antone's to see Cage the Elephant, the Duke Spirit and Silversun Pickups, all of whom put on excellent shows. Afterwards, I wandered up to Sixth Street looking for trouble, but found only the last few songs of the Riverboat Gamblers' incendiary set at Emo's Annex, and a really shitty slice of late-night pizza from a stand on Red River. After one more victory lap across Sixth, I went back to the hotel and hit the hay. Which is exactly what I'm gonna do right now.
Man... Looks like an absolutely stellar trip, my friend. So glad you got to see the Dolls and indulge in so much fun. I actually saw that band, the Sea, perform at Slim's a few months back. I agree. They kick ass...
Posted by: Erik | March 23, 2009 at 06:39 AM
Who's playing bass for the Dolls now? And, as a former denizen of Ohio, I just have to stand up and say, your loss on Devo. ;^)
Posted by: Bob MacKay | March 23, 2009 at 11:07 AM
Imagine The Sea at Slims? They absolutely fucking killed it here.
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Posted by: Gary Poole | March 23, 2009 at 12:31 PM
Glad ya didn't kill yourself - sounds like it was pretty crazy but still fun.
You'll have to let me know the new bands that ya think i'd dig. I'm totally outta touch on new things - i think Boris - on your suggestion - is the newest combo i've checked out.
Funnily enough, I just put my Devo LPs on CD - good stuff - the early albums still hold up!
Posted by: Rich | March 23, 2009 at 02:23 PM
Bob, Sami Yaffa of Hanoi Rocks is playing bass for the Dolls these days — I don't think anyone could be a more perfect fit. Rich, you would definitely dig The Sea, and probably Priestess as well; it's metal, but with a 70s dirtbag vibe that I know you would appreciate!
Posted by: Dan E | March 23, 2009 at 03:35 PM
Dan, What a week! I wouldn't have been able to keep up with you.
Posted by: stu | March 31, 2009 at 11:27 PM